Introducing new climbing terms.

Last weekend my buddy Tommy and I were at a local climbing gym training hard for the Q on the D and No Holds Barred competitions coming up.

Tommy and I started out on a nice warm up 5.10c near the desk. After I finished the climb we got a 15 minute lecture from an employee of this establishment about proper ways of leading and belaying.

Here were his points:

1. I was clipping too high, meaning my body was too far above the clip. Now I did not run out/skip any draws and clipped off the reasonable holds.
This employee went on to state that I was risking deck potential. Furthermore he said their setters always plan how to clip.

Dude, not everyone clips/climbs the same - this is my same problem with beta.

2. I was bringing the rope up in my teeth to clip. I am guilty of this, but I have full confidence in my abilities.

3. He criticized Tommy's lead belaying, saying he was belaying with his hands to close to the ATC. He then went on to describe how an ATC could cut a hand like a knife through butter down to the bone.

I was pissed.

The way this guy lectured us was condescending. This kind of thing wouldn't happen at ARock or Boulders.

Introducing new terms of climbing as a result of my encounter.

Sprayta - Spraying unwanted Beta to the climber who enjoys the process of figuring out routes/problems.

Belayta - Unwanted belaying beta.

Side note : I was at Boulders in Madison last night training, they have some quality problems up, def recommended to check out.

Alright off the soap box. Peace,

Z